How do I obtain a inspection quote?


I was wondering if you could give me a quote for an inspection on an Addison property I got into contract today. Price and availability would be really helpful. Please let me know.


I’d be happy to. I do need more details i.e. address, size, age, and so on.


You can always reach my office directly 972 612-3946

You may also go online and receive a quote and/or book the job-appointment on my calendar week 24/7

I booked Monday and Tuesday afternoon at this moment . . . first come first . . . rest of the week is open but changes as clients call and set the appointment.

My direct line should you need it 214 577 9057

Could you drop by and visit with me on the critical elements of the inspection report


Hope all is well and thanks again for all your help and support last year with the Home Inspection.

Sally and I will be putting our home on the market early in 2015 and I was wondering if you could carve out a little time to drop by and visit with me on the critical elements of the Inspection Report that need to be addressed.

I just accepted a position in California and will be heading out there January 2nd. I know this is short notice and wanted to see if any of these days would work for you 12/19, 12/23, 12/26, 12/29, 12/30 Please let me know.

Happy Holidays!!


Congratulations on the new job, you have a lot going on. Inspection field has been very busy for some time. I charge $80.00 hour for consulting.  If you have some questions that can be answered over the phone no fee, no problem, happy to do that.  If we need to sit down and mark up the report as to items of most importance and discuss then I will make time and put an appointment on my calendar.

Hopefully you repaired the more critical issues on the list soon after the inspection.

My direct line is 214 577-9057

Do you feel qualified to review the aluminum wiring . . .


The seller’s disclosure states that the property has aluminum wiring that’s been pigtailed.  I plan to talk to management tomorrow about when this was done, and whether the entire development was included or whether this was done on a unit-by-unit decision basis.

Do you feel qualified to look at the box and tell us whether the pig tailing was done properly, and is still in good condition?  Or, do you feel we should contact an electrician to check it out?


I always open and examine the electrical panel when accessible. I test all outlets for continuity but do open a few random outlets to identify if they are pig-tailed when wiring in the panel is aluminum.

The wiring in the panel should have antioxidant on the connections and one gauge larger wire used than if it were copper to the breakers.

Pig-tailing copper to aluminum wires is the preferred method when done correctly by the city of Plano. Attaching a strand of copper wire to the aluminum using a Al/Cu Wire Connector (these are usually purple for identification).

CPSC recommends COPALUM connector repair. CPSC does not support pig-tailing mentioned above.

Another standard method is to change out all receptacles and switches with a CO/ALR (works with copper or aluminum for expansion) device.

I dont know what Dallas/Richardson requires.

Everything should be upgraded that includes all outlets, receptacles, switches, and junction boxes (in the attic or other), microwave, electric water heater, HVAC connections.

I will review the panel and a few random switches and outlets however you would need and electrician if you want someone to open each and every connection and make a list of anything observed that does not comply.

Who do you recommend for carpet cleaning?


Robert, I needed a favor; I referred to the subcontractor list on your website but didnt find it. Could you please let me know the names of few carpet cleaning companies. I dont want to go by the Google list and since this is our first time we havent heard of any.

I would appreciate your help.


I do not have any carpet cleaning companies on my list but I have always been very happy with Sears since they do a steam cleaning and it is commercial equipment not something that I could rent.

They are often running a 4 rooms for $99 special this time of year . . . I would ask about this. Here is their link

I have a couple of questions regarding the roof in your report


Thank you for sending the roof report. I have a couple of questions:

First, you say a random sampling indicates the use of STAPLES. So does this apply to that one item only (SE corner of formal LR), or does this mean you checked a few other different areas and saw that the roofers used staples?

Second, regarding the areas where the siding absorbing water leading to early decay  what do you suggest? How do we fix it? Who should we have do it? (Painters/roofers/someone else?) What needs to be done? (Do the boards need to be replaced, or just trimmed (one inch up) and re-sealed with paint?) And if those areas are fixed, is the flashing tall enough to cover any new gaps left?


I was very surprised to see that I had typed the word STAPLES in my report.

The correct answer is NAILS; I have attached the report with corrected verbiage. Sampling was difficult because the shingles were already adhering by means of the adhesive strip to make a solid seal between shingles.

Well the decay has been a slow process best handled prior to installing a new roof. If you were to cut the siding up one inch there would still be two inches of adequate flashing. The step flashing height is designed with the understanding that siding material will be one inch above the roof. I think it may be hard to cut at this point (cut with a power saw 95% of the way into the siding and finish the cut with a box cutter or linoleum type of knife.

At this point may want to just sand, prime and paint the wood in these areas and keep up with annual maintenance. If you are stay for 8 to 10 years then consider trimming the siding back.

Every time we had down-pouring rain, there would be puddles of water in my garage!


I recently noticed that every time we had down-pouring rain, there would be puddles of water in my garage next to the side wall (the other side of the wall is the exterior brick wall in my backyard).  I could not find where the water came from, but I suspect it came from the bottom of the wall.  Do you have any suggestions as to what I should do to rectify this issue?  Can you recommend a reputable contractor who can fix this issue?


I recommend that you contact Steve Leidy handyman. He is not the cheapest guy around but he is very resourceful and has always fixed things correctly on the first attempt for me. Im sure he will have a solution.

The insurance company is asking if the roof is class IV ?


The insurance company is asking if the roof is class IV or if it has been replaced since the house was built. Can you please advise?


It would have been easier to answer these questions if I was asked at the time of the inspection. However looking at my report and photos  The roof is in good shape minus a few small notes pertaining to the tree abrasion and a missing shingle tab.

This a 20 year composition shingle roof not a class 4 top of the line weather resistant roof.

I cant answer the replacement question since I am not looking at the roof presently but the condition of the roof is good with exception to minor items noted in the report.

I was trying to clean the Jacuzzi today and was having a hard time getting it to start.


I was trying to clean the Jacuzzi today and was having a hard time getting it to start.

Is there a trick, I only see one button and it doesnt do anything when I depress the button.  Is there something I am not doing correctly?

Robert –

It is hard to remember the details or specifics on all the tubs I operate but there is often a wall switch in the bathroom (an override switch) that needs to be turned on along with the power switch at the tub. If you look by the entry to the bath there may be one additional switch that does not turn on fan or lights . . . that would likely be the spa override switch.

The other is there is a GFCI device usually in the master closet dedicated to the tub that also needs to be in the on position in order for the tub to work. There is no reason that the GFCI would be tripped or off at this time.

Does the WDI report indicate active termites?

Client –

Your WDI report map has (AS) marks but no description. Are there active termites?


The WDI report is filled out correctly

page 1 section 8, checked active subterranean termites

page 1 section 8G description Sub-termites . . . area: foundation of dining room.

page 2 (AS) is the abbreviation for Active Subterranean Termite . . . at the top of the diagram the state defines the abbreviations and I circled A-Active; S-Subterranean Termite labled on the house diagram.

Three questions regarding the inspection report?


I wanted to touch base with you for 3 things and sorry for emailing you so late.

  1. Roofing: Random Sampling of Material Reveals: Shingles bonded together Unable to separate the shingles without tearing them.

Answer: The builder and the roofing guy said that this is the normal way to bond the shingles. They did not understand what you meant by this line and did not think about this as the defect.

  1. Air/Vent cooling and heating:

Did you check the heating because even if I keep temp at 75F, I get cool air although the heat system is ON?

And then its always cold while temp inside the house shows below 75F.

  1. Also in master bathroom the water from the tap takes really long time to get hot water. I understand that the heaters are in the garage and can take long but this one is sometime like 10min for running water.


Just wanted to have your opinion.

What I am really worried about the Heating cooling system which I feel is not working as per my expectation. I would like to request you as a part of inspection to check it again if possible.


1) TREC guidelines want inspectors to peel back a random number of shingles to see if they are fastened with staples or nails. The comment I made was simply to state that I would cause damage to the shingles if I were to peel back a layer they are already adhering together which is common.

Very few homes can I peel back the shingles.

2) Yes copied from the report

Heating Equipment

Type of Systems: Forced Central Air

Energy Sources: Gas

Comments: Two gas furnace(s) flame pattern appears normal, operation appears to be good.

 Note that the downstairs HVAC system has a fresh air ventilation system that pulls outside air into the home about 20 to 30% of the time if it is working properly SEE the following that is in the report on pages 15-16.

YOU MAY WANT TO TURN THIS SYSTEM OFF! Or have the builders contractor look it over to see if it is working correctly.

3) You should time it precisely and see what happens. Worst case scenario for getting hot water to a location that I have seen is 3 minutes and that is not a good thing. The builder may say there is nothing he can do to the routing of the plumbing lines however I would press the builder on this issue as being unacceptable if in fact it takes 3 minutes or more.

Last statement have the builder make the corrections to the furnace first then second if this does not improve contact my subcontractor Albert (have him look at the system not his workers) he charges about $50 per unit evaluation and specializes in heat and air.

Heat & Air Atlantic AC (ask for Albert the owner to come out) 972-247-9536

There you go I am available to help further as needed.